Travel Through the Art of Ingredients: An Unforgettable Kaiseki Journey
- Mayu Kimura
- Aug 23, 2024
- 3 min read
Join me for a dining experience crafted by a skilled chef who was once the head chef at a Michelin-starred restaurant in Gion, Kyoto. Together with his wife, the Okami, the female head who manages the guest experience, they run a kappo-style kaiseki that feels like being warmly welcomed into their home. Despite being a small team, they offer remarkable warmth and care, attending to every need—whether you're cold, hot, thirsty, or simply seeking comfort. They make sure you’re well looked after from start to finish, without overdoing it.
Each dish is a work of art, made with careful attention and dedication. The preparation, called shikomi, takes a lot of time and effort and shows the chef's deep knowledge of the seasons and Japanese cooking traditions. The chef customizes each meal for your allergies, needs and preferences, even adding your favorite ingredients when possible. Because of this care, canceling a reservation isn’t just inconvenient—it’s also typically seen as disrespectful in Japan. Once you taste the incredible food, you’ll understand why it’s so important to honor your reservation unless it’s absolutely necessary.
What I love about the dining experience is knowing that guests enjoy the finest parts of the ingredients, while the remaining portions are turned into dishes, e.g. Korean pancakes, with leftover noodle for the chef and his team after hours. This practice, called makanai, minimizes waste and really shows the chef’s creativity. The Okami or apprentice typically packs any leftover rice and wraps up onigiri (rice balls) for you to take home if you can’t finish it.
During the meal, I had the chance to try things I’d never experienced before, like raw lotus seeds and seasonal Chinese lantern fruit called Hozuki. Every summer, on July 9th and 10th, the renowned Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, Tokyo, hosts a summer tradition with hozuki stalls filling the temple grounds. These dates are known for the "46,000 blessings" festival, and the Hozuki Market is held as part of the celebration. (Read more if you're interested!)
The tiny Ayu fish is also in season for summer and is usually grilled over charcoal with salt. But, The chef took a unique approach: he opened the fresh fish, let it dry overnight, added miso seasoning inside with different types of miso—one with white miso and the other with red miso—and then sealed it back to its original shape before grilling it just in time for the meal. (He said, his apprentice chef almost cried as it was extremely difficult!) Despite its sweet taste, the ayu fish looks quite fierce as you can see above. The chef selects seasonal ingredients, pairs them with complementary flavors, and presents them on beautifully handpicked plates. He even makes his own nuka (fermented rice bran) for pickles and maintains it daily.
Fresh Aji fish from Awaji Island, Tai fish from Tottori, which is actually a prefecture in Japan famous for its sand dunes, eggplants from northern Kyoto—grilled and set in cold dashi jelly, served in a dish designed to look like an eggplant (as below)—somen noodles from Nara, and Ayu fish from Kumamoto: each dish highlights produce from across Japan, creating a true culinary journey in every bite. What truly makes the experience special, though, is the Okami’s charm. Her warmth and hospitality instantly won me over, making the meal even more memorable.
